There were several surprising things about Ghana that I want to touch on before recounting my experience. I expected the country to have a significant Western influence and even to hold some hostility toward white people because of its history of slave trade. I also expected some level of sophisticated development because Accra is the largest city in Western Africa. However, my preconceived notions were largely off base.
Upon arrival, it was evident that these people were proud of their country. Ghana was the first African nation to fight for and gain its independence from European powers just over 50 years ago. For this, it has a unique sense of pride in its functional and independent system of governance.
Some streets were dirt paths, but most in the center of Accra were just old asphalt with potholes. Simple concrete structures and wooden shacks lined the roads serving as markets, barbershops, or even homes. Futbol or soccer jerseys were sold along the streets with flags and handicrafts. The locals are all very excited about playing in the World Cup this summer.
Before arriving we learned that 40% of the Ghanaian population is under the age of 15. This statistic was quite evident as groups of little children congregated around us in the villages.
Despite all of the facts and statistics I learned before arriving, what surprised me most about this country was their fascination with and admiration of America. In almost every taxicab an American flag was displayed on the dash. American flag t-shirts with President Obamas face were sold on every street corner. There were even billboards and popular songs welcoming The Obamas to Ghana. Once the locals knew we were American, they would all smile and reference Obamas visit earlier in the year. Seeing this incredibly hospitable reception made me wonder how my journey would have compared just over a year ago before President Obama represented America. I think it would have been a vastly different experience. In fact, in almost every country we have visited, the pop-star like culture that surrounded Barak Obama during his election still persists. I have seen how the worlds opinions on America and its people have dramatically changed in a short time due to our new leadership.
Lastly, the most striking issue in this country is access to clean, drinkable water. In the cities this is not much of an issue because they sell plastic water bags where you bite the corner off and suck the water out. However, in the more rural communities usually there will be just one pump with an unreliable flow of water. The women come to this one pump carrying water back to their house in a large jug on top of their head. However, when the pump breaks or the water stops flowing, the village goes thirsty. Every time I would purchase water the people would ask for a sip and I would feel compelled just to give the water away. More so than any other country Ive visited, this basic, human necessity is lacking. I could easily keep going with observations, but instead I will just begin to tell you about each day.
Sunday, April 18, 2010
GHANA REFLECTIONS:
Friday, April 9, 2010
Last Day in South Africa
Day 5 South Africa:
Happy Easter! Today is our last day in Cape Town and none of us want to leave! I could definitely see myself moving here for a few years to work. It is an absolutely beautiful city and has a similar culture to San Diego- laid back and friendly. We decided to go shopping in the morning at the waterfront mall since it was just us girls today. After some successful purchases, we headed to a great shabby sheik restaurant called Manna Epicure near the base of Table Mountain. It reminded me of a hip lunch spot that could easily be in Beverly Hills. Mychaela, Tammy, Margaret and I all ordered the same salad and we just enjoyed our time not having to race around the last day. Finally we feel like we had the chance to see everything we wanted to and satisfied with our time there. With just a few hours left before on ship time we decided to go back to our favorite beachfront town- Camps Bay- for some drinks and people watching. It was a great way to end our time in South Africa. Hopefully Ill be back very soon!
We were supposed to leave that evening but due to strong winds we didnt leave until 24 hours later and we werent even allowed off the ship again. It was torture going to class and looking out the window at Table Mountain and the Waterfront knowing that we couldnt go explore. Luckily, the MV Explorer is the fastest cruise ship in the world so we just kicked it into high gear to make up for lost time! Here we come Ghana!
Cape Point
Day 4 South Africa:
Today was a long day full of driving around the western coastline with absolutely breathtaking views of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. We left Cape Town and drove through Bishops Court where some of the nicest houses are. We continued on to Simons Town where Tammys great Aunt and Uncle live but we couldnt get in touch with them so we just waived at their house as we drove by. We stopped at a gem stone store and I made a necklace and a bracelet then we continued on to an artisan market where we bargained for more African souvenirs. I got the coolest wooden mask with an afro to hang in my room at home! Our next stop was Boulders Beach to see the warm climate penguins. We went to a more residential area so there werent many tourists. The penguins were just waddling all over the rocks and hanging out in little burrows they had made in the plants. We could get really close to them and they would just stare at us as if saying hello.
The highlight of the day was going to Cape Point- the southern most point in Africa where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. It was a cloudy day but we could still see the point at which the two oceans converged. We hiked up to the top of the lookout point and climbed over the barrier even though it wasnt the smartest idea on a windy day. It was so cool to look straight down into the ocean from high above and be at the very tip of a continent. After driving through the national park for a bit we saw several ostrich and baboons! Before making our way back toward Cape Town we had a late lunch at in Hoat Bay, another beautiful beach town. I ordered Sole for the first time and loved it! The fish is so fresh here.
We were coming back into Cape Town just before sunset so we had our driver stop at Camps Bay (our favorite beach area) for a sunset cocktail. We were walking across the street and several guys waived us over to their table on the patio of a bar. They invited us for drinks so we figured why not?. They ended up being Argentinean rugby players here in Cape Town for a tournament. They knew about as much English as I knew Spanish so we chatted back and forth switching languages for the next hour watching yet another gorgeous African sunset. We decided to continue the day with our new friends and gave them a ride to the waterfront with our driver so they could see our ship. We all had appetizers and beer at our favorite bar, Mitchells, before they had to leave for a team dinner. We never ended up meeting again with our Argentinean friends that night when we were out on Long Street, but it sure did make for a great memory.
Table Mountain, Cheetahs, and Wine...
Day 3 South Africa:
This morning Tammy, Mychaela, Margaret, Jimmy, Flicker, Chris and I woke up early for our hike to the top of Table Mountain. All of the guidebooks said one must be reasonably fit to do the hike, but this was a dramatic understatement!! This climb was by far the most physically demanding activity I have ever done. We were climbing over boulders and up rocks for 2.5 hours before reaching the flat top of the mountain. The path was the easy route even!! It was such a great feeling turning in a circle and seeing ocean on either side with the huge city down below. Feeling accomplished, yet exhausted, we had lunch looking out over the Indian Ocean from the top of the mountain. Quite the view! After the long morning we made our way down to the base in just 1 minute on the rotating funicular.
For the second part of the day we drove out to Stellenbosh Wine Lands for an afternoon of wine tasting. On the way out there we had all the windows down in the car and a black bee flew in and stung me on the leg! I screamed because it felt like I got stabbed with a needle suddenly then it got swollen, hot, and red (I still have a weird bruise a week after the sting!!). The drive was gorgeous though. Our first stop in Stellenbosh was the cheetah sanctuary. We all got to pet a cheetah and learn about their population struggle in Africa. After, we went to Asara Winery where we tried 5 different wines and learned about what flavors to look for in each. While I couldnt quite taste the peach aroma or cherry blossom, I absolutely loved two of them. We werent ready to leave the beautiful winery after our wine tasting was done so we moved to the outdoor lounge area with blankets and ordered a few bottles of our favorite wines. The boys ordered some South African cigars and we all enjoyed the beautiful sunset. It was one of my favorite moments of the entire semester just sitting there enjoying each others company surrounded by vineyards and stunning mountains.
For dinner we went to Moyo at Spier which is a must-do on any trip to the wine country. They have tree house seating and even painted our faces. The tented restaurant has tea lights everywhere for a village experience. We sat right next to the stage and watched a traditional African performance. The food was delicious! Completely exhausted we all fell asleep in the driveway by the fire pit waiting for our cab and agreed it was a great day!
Robben Island & Townsihps
April 1, 2010
Day 2 South Africa:
Today was one of my favorite days in South Africa! Chris and I woke up bright and early to tour Robben Island, the maximum-security jail where Nelson Mandela spent time during Apartheid. The island is just off the coast so we took a 20 min boat ride over and then boarded buses for our tour around the entire island. There are people living there today and a school for the children. The jail, however, has been turned into a peace museum that spreads awareness about Apartheid. We saw the limestone quarries where the prisoners were forced to work and even Nelson Mandelas actual prison cell. An ex-prisoner toured us around and spoke of his experience from the mid 1970s until he was released in 1991. After our tour Chris and I stopped at a beautiful restaurant outside at the Waterfront for a nice lunch before our tour of the townships that afternoon. We ordered calamari and a bottle of South African Chardonnay to start the meal. It was so much fun sitting in the shade watching the busy waterfront and enjoying our lunch.
We met Jimmy and Flicker at the hotel next to our ship for our afternoon township tour. First we went to an Apartheid museum where we learned about the forced separation and movement of the black population to the outskirts of the city. We visited three different townships today where we got to play with the children, speak to the adults, and support their micro-enterprise initiatives by purchasing souvenirs. Compared to other countries weve visited, South Africa has been the easiest to navigate because English is the primary spoken language. Naturally, we were able to learn more from these townships because we conversed easily with the locals. I brought stickers to give out to the kids so we were quite the hit! We were spinning kids around in the sand, giving piggyback rides to multiple kids at once and seeing who could make the scariest face. Also, both the adults and children absolutely loved getting their picture taken and viewing it after. We visited one local brewery inside a shack made of tin and wood scraps and had the chance to try the beer out of a big bucket. We visited several homes where 5 people would share one bed by sleeping in shifts or having the children sleep outside in the dirt. We also visited a pool hall where we joined the locals in having a beer and playing a game of pool. While the guys played their game I chatted with the ladies there and they taught me how to dance African Style. Needless to say, it was hard to leave each stop and was an incredibly eye opening day.
Once back at the ship I met up with Tammy, Margaret, and Mychaela for a quick turn around to go to the town of Constantia for dinner with some of Tammys family friends. We arrived in this absolutely gorgeous neighborhood (such a stark difference from earlier in the day) and were welcomed wholeheartedly. Their house was nicer than any house I know at home and beautifully decorated. We sat for hours eating our first home cooked meal in months and enjoying conversation about life in South Africa. The children were our age so we laughed comparing cultures and telling them about our journey around the world. Completely exhausted but determined to go out for a little bit we met up with Chris, Jimmy, and Flicker at Mitchells Waterfront Brewery to try the famous Milk & Honey Beer before calling it a night.
Arrival in South Africa
March 31, 2010
Day 1 South Africa:
After days of seeing the African shoreline off in the distance we finally began to pull into Cape Town, South Africa! At 6am the sky was a vibrant red with orange cascading over Table Mountain and Lions Head. The new soccer stadium for the World Cup was glowing in the middle of the city. The scene was absolutely spectacular. Chris and I went on a Semester at Sea day trip to an HIV/AIDS hospital where we learned about the extent of the virus in South Africa. Did you know 1 in 8 people have HIV in this country? It was fascinating learning about the problem and the manifestation of the virus, but unfortunately we couldnt visit with any of the patients like we had expected because there was a Measles outbreak and the wards were all closed to visitors. A few hours later Chris and I returned to the ship and went in search of a restaurant with a great view and good drinks for a leisurely lunch. The waitress at Primi Wharf convinced us both to get Jam Jars which were enormous sugary drinks. Tammy, Margaret, and Mychaela joined us towards the end of our 3 hour meal and we all went in search of good souvenirs afterward. Unfortunately it was already 5pm and we didnt have much time before the street vendors started packing up, so our cab driver took us over to Camps Bay for a quick bargain with the vendors still there. I got a cool woven basket and an elephant statue (of course overpriced, but we were in a hurry). That night we met up with everyone else from Semester at Sea on Long Street where all the fun bars are. Like always, it was a late night and lots of fun!
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
SUNRISE IN AFRICA
SOUTH AFRICA!!
Look at the sunrise this morning coming into Cape Town- SPECTACULAR!!Anddd... for all of you eagerly awaiting the World Cup here is a pic of the 80,000 person stadium they have built (interestingly the USC Colosseum holds 93,000). Off to a HIV/AIDS clinic visit!

















